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gaz
-19th November 2003, 20:43
Hello all , I hope you can give me some pointers on this one.
Lately I have found my fencing improving, but what I have in speed of attack I seem to lack as much in accuracy.
I tend to be aggressive in attack but find because I can parry quickly and get a hit in at speed, when it comes to a simultaneous attack or where the action slows down and I have to defend, I find I am weak within these areas.My defensive parrys are weak and clumsy. Also I find I want to go for it quickly and because we have a small number of fencers at the club, we have become "onto" each other and our weaknesses are taken advantage of. So how do I go about improving my strengths and strengthening my weaknesses.
Thanks
Gaz.

ceprab
-20th November 2003, 09:24
Offhand, get your coach to focus with you on areas where you feel you need to improve, and try and fence other people from outside your club. Simple obvious and for the reason probably not very helpful I'm afraid.

Perhaps more usefully, you could try and limit yourself when fighting within your club, eg fight someone and try not to attack the way you are good at/used to - limit yourself to the things you want to improve.

Hope that helps.

plewis66
-21st November 2003, 07:43
Hmmm, sounds like you need the dogs balls training aid.

When I first started using mine about a week ago, after the first hit, when the balls are jiggling, I found it impossible to hit again, even from just a few inches.

Now, after just a week or so, I can hit about once in every fout attempts from about a foot away. At this rate, I hope to be able to hit with a short lunge, once in every three, say, in a couple of months. That's got to be an improvement in accuracy.

Marcos
-21st November 2003, 08:04
accuracy first, then speed

slow the whole thing down, lots of slow repitition - then speed up

vision
-2nd December 2003, 12:06
You must first start with basics. Point control, however the effectiveness of this depends upon the set on the blade. Get that right then the rest is easy !

plewis66
-3rd December 2003, 12:24
Originally posted by vision
this depends upon the set on the blade.

Wassat?

vision
-3rd December 2003, 12:42
ask your fencing professor. Its one of the basic fundamentals.

If you are still having problems let me know.

plewis66
-4th December 2003, 14:22
I'm still having problems.

The problem is I forgot to ask. Could you just tell me please?

I've read three books on fencing, and fenced for a total of two years, but never come across the phrase 'the set on the blade'.

clockity
-4th December 2003, 14:41
Originally posted by plewis66
I'm still having problems.

The problem is I forgot to ask. Could you just tell me please?

I've read three books on fencing, and fenced for a total of two years, but never come across the phrase 'the set on the blade'.

See Leon Paul's Epée Armoury page (http://www.leonpaul.com/shop/armoury_shop/epee_armoruy.htm#Mounting_foil_from_scratch) where they go through mounting the blade...

Dave Hillier
-4th December 2003, 14:45
When you hold your sword the blade should angle to your left(Right if you are left handed) and down. This angle is the set, it is generally between 0 and 10 degrees in both planes.

Having a set on your blade makes it easier to place your point on the target. It is important to make sure that the set on all your weapons is the same or if you switch swords in a fight the relative position of the point to your hand will change.

Everyone has their blades set slightly differently which is one of the reasons to get your own kit rather than relying on club equipment.

Talk to you coach about it then get an aromurer to set one of your weapons and keep varying it untill you find something that you like.

I hope that helps or some one who knows better than me can write some thing more comprehensive (and with better grammar)

plewis66
-4th December 2003, 15:32
Thanks for that.

At present I have one (steam) foil and one (anbaric) epee, is it worth me setting the set the same on both these? Or will the switch from epee to foil negate the need?

Ta.

Dave Hillier
-4th December 2003, 15:59
Personally I think that having a set in the epee is far more important as a good set make wrist hits much easier. However be aware that putting a set on an old weapon could break it.

I would recomend that you ask some one else to do it for you or at least show you how. Getting it right isn't the easiest thing in the world.

You will probably want to have a different set on your foil and epee. But as with all of these things it is am matter of personal preference.

Dave

ps ask your coach they will know much more than I do.

vision
-5th December 2003, 14:04
The responses here are good, however I would suggest that you use the informarion as a starting point. Staying with convention is not necessaraily the correct option for yourself. Experiment and find what works for you. With regards to breaking the 'handle'. Please tell me I the quality of the metal used in constructing the blades so poor ?

plewis66
-5th December 2003, 17:58
I would guess that the possibility of breaking the blade would come from the nature of the bend, and the maner of applying it.

When hitting, there is a nice curve along the length of the blade, and it (nearly) always goes in the same direction.

When applying the set, you are making a bend over a very small length of the blade (less than a centimetre, I would guess). If the angle of this bend was altered by increasing and decreasing it too many times, then that would be the ideal way to break the blade.

Metal weakens much more quickly when it is 'wiggled'. I guess this is what the caution is about.

stevejackson
-5th December 2003, 20:27
At the risk of plugging a particular manufacturers web site there are photos and discriptions of setting an epee on the Leon Paul website under the Armoury heading.

2 problems with setting

First the repeated bending can induce a break (This applies to almost all metals except copper as I recall).

Second the tang is part of the blade and is subject to the same hardening and tempering process but it seems not to be tempered to the same extent as the actual blade and so can be left brittle and certainly tough.