View Full Version : Best glues...

-20th December 2003, 20:59
Does anybody know the best glues for rewiring blades? I use low viscosity (i.e. runny) superglue for foils, but somebody told me that epoxy (which I used to use) is better for epees. I hate epoxy because it just will not go in the groove in foils, and even with epees it takes 24 hours to dry! But I have seen 5 minute epoxy, and am going to give it a go, but is there any inherent advantage in epoxy resin over superglue, since all the Leon Paul foils seem to come epoxied (although I don't know how they do it).

-21st December 2003, 10:07
Epoxy is flexible, whereas superglue is rigid. So theoretically the epoxy should be better as it can flex as the blade bends. I have used both, but tend just to use liquid superglue now as I'm lazy (10 minute rewire compared with 24 hours).

With liquid superglue you have to make sure you don't let too much glue run down onto the thread of the barrel as it can then run into the centre of the barrel and glue up the brass disc at the end of the rewire as well. However, superglue is easier to remove from the blade when taking the old wire out, making rewiring easier.

So although, theoretically epoxy is better, I'm voting for liquid superglue.


-21st December 2003, 10:16
So which end do you add the glue at? Do you hold the sword point up and add glue near the point or hold it up-side down and add glue at the tang?

-21st December 2003, 15:51
I use (or at least my foils have been rewired with) glue gun glue. This has several advantages, with control (i.e. someone more competent than me using the glue gun) you can avoid getting too much glue all over the place, and when the wire breaks, you only need heat to get the wire out rather than spending forever trying to remove epoxy or superglue. It is also strechy rather than rigid, so the glue doesn't crack when the blade bends

-21st December 2003, 16:26
I was wondering when we'd get dwon to this ("there's ony one way to get rid of moles ..... ).

I've forgotten what Leon Pauls use, but I don't think it one of those listed - I think its a variety of UHU/ Bostik (it's not one of teh ones you'd expect).

Glue from the tip down. Acetate (nail varnish remover) is said be to good for teh residue of old glues.

-21st December 2003, 22:59
I use "3M plastic and emblem adhesive"
- because its flexible, clear and doesnt dry too quickly thereby avoiding the embarrassment of gluing my fingers to the blade. Stays "soft" for about 10-15 secs and then dries in around 1 hour - its a bit like using extra strong UHU for all those people out there who made Airfix models in their youth.

I have also found the Hammerite brush cleaner to be a handy solvent for cleaning the old glue out. Seems to work better on some glues than others though.

-22nd December 2003, 00:17
Can the poll be edited to include more glue types ?

-22nd December 2003, 07:53
Originally posted by Rdb811
Can the poll be edited to include more glue types ?

I can edit the poll to add whatever you need - let me know.

-22nd December 2003, 09:00
Don't forget to put an 'other' category like I did

-22nd December 2003, 18:29
I personally use Zap CA (thin viscosity, instant cure cyanoacrylate) for most blades, although a somewhat thicker, 'gap-filling' cyanoacrylate (such as Zap-a-Gap) can work better for epees. Pacer also make a CA called Flex-Zap, which does not dry as brittle as other CAs. Most hobby shops will carry Zap or similar cyanoacrlyates in a range of viscosities. In then final analysis, though, how thoroughly you clean out the blade groove prior to rewiring is far more important than what sort of glue you use.

For removing old wires, I normally use a stand-pipe filled with acetone. Place the blades inside, recover with the end-cap, and the glue will be dissolved in a few hours. For a blade that needs to be stripped and rewired immediatly, I'll use a cut-off wheel on my Dremel tool to grind out the old wire and glue (wear eye protection when doing this, naturally).


-22nd December 2003, 18:52
My approach is rather more simple (I was shown it by Peter Huggins at an armoury course in Cardiff, where I became an Apprentice Armourer of the BFA, and received the ridiculously large T-Shirt with Leon Paul across it).
I use a heat gun and a pair of pliers to pull the wire out. Done at the right speed, it will strip out all the glue over large portions of the blade (for foils, for epees there's not really a problem). I then hack at the remaining glue with an old trimming knife until it's all gone. I am going to buy Tufloc Super-Low Viscosity (5 cps) Cyanoacrylate for foils, and Bison 5-Minute Epoxy for epees (because I'm lazy).

-24th December 2003, 00:55
Not sure about glue going in, but for taking it off I can recommend the acetone bath method, it works like a charm, especially if you have a lot to do.

-5th January 2004, 10:37
isn't Zap CA more or less the same as superglue?

-5th January 2004, 21:15
Originally posted by sparkymark567
isn't Zap CA more or less the same as superglue?

Yes but it has 2 advantages,

Using the pink bottle version it has very low viscosity 3 drops will run the length of the blade (When new)

It doesn't seem to be as brittle and holds with out cracking away like some varieties.

No relationship with the manufacturers except as a satisfied user of the product.

-6th January 2004, 19:48
Originally posted by stevejackson

Using the pink bottle version it has very low viscosity 3 drops will run the length of the blade (When new)

That's one thing to be aware of with cyanoacrylates-- once the bottle is opened, the glue starts absorbing moisture from the air and slowly thickens, even if you re-cap it. I find it's almost always better to buy several small bottles of the stuff instead of one large one. Large bottles usually solidify before I use them up (and I wire a fair number of blades).