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Wolfie
-1st February 2004, 21:11
Hi all,
Does anyone know who sells good lames for the lowest price (somewhere in the $80-$120 range not including shipping)? My dad wants to get me one for my birthday (almost 14!!!) and we are tired of renting. So, who loves their lames?
Wolfie

foilerist
-1st February 2004, 21:38
ok not too sure of the exchange rate, but I've used both pbt and allstar lames. Both are reasonably comfortable and last well although i did find that with the pbt you kind of get choked if you fasten it right up(Hungarians must have really small necks). Switched to allstar so i could give my kid the old one and be able to breathe on the piste, its nice and light, very comfortable. I'm talking foil lames here not sabre. Hope this helps. I'm in the uk and the prices aren't too much.

Australian
-2nd February 2004, 10:54
if you are fairly thin, try a BG lame...

they are american based (as i assume you are) and fit me wonderfully well.... cept they need to be washed fairly frequently if you are going to comps with weapons control

Wolfie
-3rd February 2004, 00:20
Thanks, I am going to check those brands out.
Wolfie

symon
-26th February 2004, 16:17
drop Triplette in Elkin, north Carolina a line wolfie!! they do some good Lame's ( just ordered the new stretch lame from walter!!)

gbm
-28th February 2004, 20:16
Originally posted by Australian
if you are fairly thin, try a BG lame...

they are american based (as i assume you are) and fit me wonderfully well.... cept they need to be washed fairly frequently if you are going to comps with weapons control

You can wash lames? I thought they would rust or something (and I call myself an armourer...)

neevel
-29th February 2004, 04:54
Lames should be washed periodically-- it'll make a big difference in how long they last. It's especially true of copper lames (like BG's). The salts in sweat will greatly accelerate corrosion (just like ice-melting salts on roads contribute to cars rusting). Washing the lame will get rid of the build-up of sweat salts.

Even though stainless lames resist corrosion, you can still get salts coating the metal strands to the point where it interferes with conductivity.

You want to hand-wash (no washing machines) lames, using a mild detergent (Woolite, Ivory Snow, or equivalent) and a bit of ammonia. Dip the lame in, gently agitate it by hand, then rinse it off under running water and let it air dry.

-Dave

Australian
-29th February 2004, 09:00
Originally posted by neevel
Lames should be washed periodically-- it'll make a big difference in how long they last. It's especially true of copper lames (like BG's). The salts in sweat will greatly accelerate corrosion (just like ice-melting salts on roads contribute to cars rusting). Washing the lame will get rid of the build-up of sweat salts.

Even though stainless lames resist corrosion, you can still get salts coating the metal strands to the point where it interferes with conductivity.

You want to hand-wash (no washing machines) lames, using a mild detergent (Woolite, Ivory Snow, or equivalent) and a bit of ammonia. Dip the lame in, gently agitate it by hand, then rinse it off under running water and let it air dry.

-Dave

i find a extra bit of lemon juice keeps me under that 5 ohm limit ;)

symon
-29th February 2004, 21:15
Srb mentioned somthing about washing you're Lame in Lemon juice on another thread but he went into indepth on the scientific part though that when right over my head:confused:
but give the guy his dues he had just done his chemical comosition!!

oddball
-11th March 2004, 11:43
Washing machines are ok for LP lames. Well, mine still works!!

Insipiens
-11th March 2004, 15:07
srb's in depth science point was (I think) that Lemon juice is a mild acid and therefore will disolve the salts that have built up from washing powder.

I have an old lame (ten years) which has not seen use for that time and was not conducting on the front (back is fine). I have tried lemon juice trick and need to check at the club if it works now. Only mine was with lime juice as I had no lemons at the time. ;)

gbm
-11th March 2004, 18:18
Leon Paul say on their web site that you shouldn't wash lames in washing machines; they suggest ammonia or similar.

Insipiens
-11th March 2004, 19:09
Originally posted by goodbadandme
Leon Paul say on their web site that you shouldn't wash lames in washing machines; they suggest ammonia or similar.

But Leon Paul's lames have labels with washing instructions which say that you can machine wash them. :shrug:

oddball
-16th March 2004, 11:48
Originally posted by Insipiens
But Leon Paul's lames have labels with washing instructions which say that you can machine wash them. :shrug:


I rest my case

oddball
-16th March 2004, 11:51
This is when the S.P.C.A.L get me....



( Society for the Prevention of Cruelty and Abuse to Lames)

Australian
-16th March 2004, 14:55
Originally posted by oddball
I rest my case

i worry that machine washing it will damage the threads/fibres

just as easy to handwash/soak it

uk_45
-16th March 2004, 21:40
Ok time to call barry in on this one!

BARRY BARRY BARRY!!!!!

neevel
-17th March 2004, 19:19
Originally posted by Australian
i worry that machine washing it will damage the threads/fibres

just as easy to handwash/soak it

The risk with machine washing is that the spin cycle will wind up wadding the lame firmly against the side of the wash drum, which makes for a lot of creases in the lame fabric. Creases stress the metal strands and weaken or break them.

Given that it takes no more than 5 minutes to hand wash a lame (fill the basin with water, soap, and ammonia, dip the lame it and gently agitate it, pull it out an rinse it off, then put it on a hanger to drip dry), there's not much of a time saving in using a washing machine to offset the chance of damage.

-Dave

Australian
-18th March 2004, 12:14
Originally posted by neevel
The risk with machine washing is that the spin cycle will wind up wadding the lame firmly against the side of the wash drum, which makes for a lot of creases in the lame fabric. Creases stress the metal strands and weaken or break them.

Given that it takes no more than 5 minutes to hand wash a lame (fill the basin with water, soap, and ammonia, dip the lame it and gently agitate it, pull it out an rinse it off, then put it on a hanger to drip dry), there's not much of a time saving in using a washing machine to offset the chance of damage.

-Dave

thank you sir :)

srb
-18th March 2004, 13:59
I've just bought a new lame (about 2 minutes ago!).

In the end I bought a Leon Paul lightweight lamé (Reference F60LW). I will let you know what I think of it.

srb

Peter Pan
-18th March 2004, 14:02
Does anyone on the Forum know for certain the status of Infinity lames - there has been speculation on previous threads that they are illegal because they breach M28 "The interior of conductive jackets must be electrically insulated by a lining or by an adequate treatment of the conductive lamé material" - which they clearly do, but Infinity's web site reports "this material has been tested by FIE technicians and will be passed at all International events"? - this sounds rather carefully worded to me - ie, THE MATERIAL as opposed to THE GARMENT is claimed to "have been tested..." A new and very satisfied customer told me at the CdN in Edinburgh he had been faxed a document "demonstrating FIE approval" - and he busked it through WC!

It would be nice to think they are legal as they are great jackets - Can anyone shed any light on this?

neevel
-18th March 2004, 18:25
They are permitted by SEMI-- U.S. Fencers have been wearing them at World Cups and World Championships for several years. Basically, the lining has been found to be "adequate" from the standpoint of the rule.

-Dave

wingnutLP
-19th March 2004, 15:53
They are legal more because the definition in the rules is so sloppy than anything else.

Without the definition of the acceptable level of resistance between inside and out of jacket it is fairly pointless.

My money is on the FIE redefining the rules soon to clarify the matter.

To confuse things it is not the water contacting the Lame material but rather the fact that it is salty that is the problem.