View Full Version : wire probs

-27th April 2004, 21:51
I'm going to become our club armour next year so i'm going to be asking you guys alot of questions. I 've got a wire stuck in a leon paul blade, so the grove is really deep and thin, and I can't get it out, do you have any ideas? :confused:

-28th April 2004, 09:43
Acetone bath allegedly works.

Easier perhaps is to warm up the glue over e.g pan of boiling water and work it out using a stanley knife (being very careful not to stab self in process

-28th April 2004, 11:20
I use a piece or tubing (stoppered at one end) filled with acetone. Leave the blade in there for an hour or so then the glue holding the wire should have disolved.

Runing a Stanley knife blade up and dow the groove helped break down the glue as well.

I understand that so people use one of those small blowtorches used by chefs to soften the glue.

Just remember that all of these methods have some risk associated with them:

Acetone can be an skin irritant
knives have obvious dangers
if you use a blowtorch you blabe will get hot! I don't know if it has any effect on its temper.....can you answer that one Barry?

-28th April 2004, 11:40

Try using a broken hacksaw blade. Same prop recently ( am attempting to learn armoury ) and it worked.

-28th April 2004, 11:45
Ok, "best" method first:-
Hold blade in vice if available or use oven mitts.
Use a hot-air paint stripper held close to the blade with a pair of pliers. see atatched picture.
Use small gas powered blow torch with a pair of pliers.

both these methods work in seconds, or.....
Use a hair dryer set on hottest setting( takes ages) with stanley knife or brocken hacksaw blade.
Soak the blade overnight in acetone bath, then clean off residue.

Once you have the wire out, it,s a good idea to run a stanley knife along the groove to get rid of any last bits and to key the surface ready for glueing.
I also do not believe the blowtorch(the small ones plumbers use is cheaper than the stainless ones chefs use) heats the blade up enough to alter the temper.


-28th April 2004, 13:32
Those tips are all great, I had heared about the acetone bath before but I don't know what it is.Were canyou get hiold of acetone and what kinf of tubing should I use? It sounds dangerous stuff :o

In my new job I'm planning to buy a few things to help, but what do you think should be in an Armours bag?

-28th April 2004, 13:48
I am not sure but I believe you can order it from Boots, but you have to fill out a form as to the purpose.
As to what you should have, take a look at this
and then scroll down to the "Recomended Tools" section-The link on this page isn't working yet, but will be.

-28th April 2004, 13:49
Sorry go here


and scroll down to recomended tools

-28th April 2004, 13:54
Acetone is also used in certain types of nail varnish remover!!!!

Obviously you will need more than comes in the average bottle!

-28th April 2004, 14:01
I have stoped using nail varnish remover as a solvent for super glue because it did not seem to work as well as when I first tried it. I'me not sure if it had a higher water content than it used to, or if I was just pinching the wrong bottle from my daughter.

-28th April 2004, 14:43
I think you'll only find substantial amounts of acetone in very cheap nail polish remover these days. You're cheapest option is probably a chemical lab supplier.

-28th April 2004, 14:46
Yes they add water to nail varnish remover and probably perfume it as well.

For tubing I use a piece of plastic conduit with a cork in the end...but I wouldn't recommend this as the acetone softens it and without a weapon in it will fold over and pour acetone all over the floor. Try a piece of copper water pipe intead, the sort of thing you'd use for plumbing in central heating.

Note: don't over fill cos when you put the blade in it'll spill out the top. It also evaporates nicely so put the lid back on the container!

I seem to be able to liberate sufficient acetone from work


-28th April 2004, 14:47
you can also get loctite glue remove. takes about 12-24 hours to work. leave you with a tacky sludge that can be removed with water. If find if i have a lot of blade to do and the time this works best, as you can leave it over night then use a shower or hose to remove the residue.

-29th April 2004, 11:39
Nail varnish remover, um, hey my sis has some....

-29th April 2004, 12:32
Best solution is still to heat the blade up gently though

-30th April 2004, 19:38

Am trying to fix my epee.
I replaced the blade (which was snapped in half), but when I plug it into the test box a green light goes on, and when the point is depressed the red light goes on and the green stays on.
Can anyone tell me what the prob is, cos I can't figure it out. The replacement blade is very old, but not sure if this is the reason for the prob.
Please help........anyone!

-30th April 2004, 19:47
Im guessing a short at the connector, but its a guess

-1st May 2004, 14:32
Originally posted by sword_fixer
Best solution is still to heat the blade up gently though

I spoke to my coach and he saud that after heating a blade he found it shortened its life span, even if it is just a gentle heat. Has any one else had this problem?

-1st May 2004, 15:48
Since the green light stays on all the time, you have permanent short.Since the red led goes on and off when it should, the wire isn't broken as well.
Assuming that the problem lies with your fitting of the epee and that the old blade was working correctly when you fitted it, the most likely place to check first is the gaurd and guard socket. Make sure that the ends of the blade wire are correctly covered by plastic insulation and that the ends are not touching the guard itself. If this doesn't fix it, examine the pinch-point where the handle, blade and guard meet. It may be that you have trapped the wire whilst tightening it and shorted it out there.http://home.btconnect.com/FatclownFilms/images/fault.jpg