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James
-30th May 2003, 07:24
borrowed a lamé jacket from my club
should i store it folded up or will this damage it?

thanks
James

Cheetara
-30th May 2003, 11:49
Possibly. Most people keep their's hung up. either inside out or not.

DrT
-30th May 2003, 13:03
could someone give a brief idiots' guide to lame care? Or point me towards one if this subject has already been done to death!

pinkelephant
-30th May 2003, 13:37
Best is to hang it up, but if you have to keep it in your bag, or when you've finished fencing, fold it up but insideout so the lame doesn't rub against other stuff in your bag.

Rdb811
-30th May 2003, 14:07
Hang it up - in the kit bag, ROLL it up - do not fold/stuff as it breaks the wires leading to dead spots.

Hudson
-30th May 2003, 15:04
hang it up when not in use and if at all possible when traveling to and from comps lay it on the back seat of your car

clockity
-30th May 2003, 15:32
Hi,

For general storage I was always told to hang the lamé inside-out. After use it should be gently dabbed dry with a towel. When travelling it should be rolled up (while still inside-out) gently around its clothes hanger. Folds will indeed cause deadspots.

Hope this helps.

Hudson
-30th May 2003, 15:38
if you have an old dry cleaning bag when you hang your lame up use it to cover the lame to stop any moisture from settling on it.

neevel
-30th May 2003, 18:30
Brief Idiot's Guide to Lame Care:

Ideally, they should be kept on a hangar, not stuffed while still wet into the dark recesses of one's bag and left there. If it does need to be packed up for travel, laying it out on a towel and then rolling it up works well. Folding a lame up can result in creasing along the folds, which will stress and weaken the metal strands.

All lames, but especially copper lames, should be washed with some regularity (once a month is good for most people). Hand wash in a sink or plasic tub with warm water, a mild detergent (e.g., Woolite) and a little ammonia. Dip it into the water, gently swish it around by hand, rinse off under running water, and then let it air dry.

It's a good idea to periodically test your lame with an ohmmeter. Even if you don't have a proper lame test weight, the end of a bannana-jack lead will provide a decent, in-the-ballpark figure. The limit in the rules is 5 ohms. New lames should show 1 ohm or less. When you start seeing spots above 3.5-4 ohms, you know it's time to start shopping for a new one, so you don't find yourself caught short at a tournament where lames are being tested. Assuming everything else in the circuit is good, lames can function with resistance well over the limit (I've seen lames with over 100 ohms that still worked on the strip), so just because your lames works at practice doesn't mean it'll pass at a tournament. The best use for working-but-not-legal lames is to reserve them for practice use, thus saving wear on your new tournaments-only lame.

Localized dead spots can be patched over with good lame material. Cut the patch larger than the dead area, fold over the edges to ensure a good electrical contact (typically, only one side of lame material is conductive), and securely sew the patch down. Silver- or nickel- paint can be used as an emergency fix to get the lame through a tournament, but isn't durable enough to be a permanent repair. Another emergency fix, if the problem is just built-up sweat salts on a lame that hasn't been washed in a while, is to try cleaning off the high spot with ammonia-based glass cleaner (for any tournament armorers, remember to allow a lame cleaned like this to dry completely before re-testing!).

-Dave

pinkelephant
-30th May 2003, 18:40
Wow!:grin:

Hudson
-30th May 2003, 19:36
wow. again thats good info,

Cvillefencer
-30th May 2003, 23:14
I have only used stainless steel lames, but I take mine into the shower with me after every tourney or practice. I have a cheapy Blade Fencing Stainless Steel at the moment, and it is just about to hit it's 2nd year being used about 3 times a week.

Apparently it is the salt from your sweat that causes the problems and not the water itself. If you just hang it up afterwards to drip dry it also keeps it fairly wrinkle free. If I have to put mine in my bag I always roll it up into a tube.

This is pretty much the practice of everyone at my club, and we all have had our lames for at least a year using this simple care method. As to how well this keeps the Ohms readings low... I will let you know after Nationals!

Good luck!

Moose
-2nd June 2003, 15:02
Hmmm, will have to try that one Cville

wingnutLP
-13th June 2003, 11:51
The new lightweight lame materials are not the same as traditional lame's made with metal fibres stitched into the weave.

The impregnated (i cant give any more away) cloth is far more resistant to dead spots as the cloth contains no metal strands. The Lame will give better freedom of movement because of this and can be folded without causing damage.

clockity
-13th June 2003, 13:13
Originally posted by wingnut
The impregnated (i cant give any more away) cloth is far more resistant to dead spots as the cloth contains no metal strands. The Lame will give better freedom of movement because of this and can be folded without causing damage.

Is there any specific maintainence technique to keeping the light-weight lamés in working order? I guess drying them after use won't hurt the material. Does sweat corode the material at all like the metal weave ones?

Using one of the new light-weight lamés I still prefer drying the inside cloth and rolling it up bottom to top with its hanger. I guess I'm a creature of habit in that regards. Plus when I hang it up it just unrolls itself.

Thanks.